Moving to Spain Guide – Chapter 14 – How Spain Works
Contents
Section One – Cultural Aspects of Life in Spain
Section Two – How Spain works
Section Three – The History of Spain, Significant Events
Section One - Cultural Aspects of Spain - Introduction
It is said that to understand a country we must first know its history. Spain is no exception, but before we delve into the past, we want to tell you more about the languages and culture of Spain and the daily life of people living in Spain. We will also explore how Spain is governed and how its legal, health and education systems operate. We aim to give the reader a basic understanding of how modern Spain works.
Spanish culture and language
Spain is a hugely diverse country with 17 autonomous regions. It isn’t surprising that you may need an umbrella in the rainy northwest and at the same time sunscreen on the Costa del Sol. In Galicia you may hear the skirl of the bagpipes and in Andalucia the click of castanets accompanying the flamenco. Types of food, produce, industry and local holidays also vary throughout the country: too much to describe here. However, we will describe common features of Spanish life which anyone thinking of living in the country should be aware of.
Regional identity and language
Spaniards can be fiercely proud of where they come from in Spain. You may find people describing themselves as Galician or Valencian before calling themselves Spanish. This is also reflected in the languages of the country. We cannot emphasise enough that learning some Spanish before moving to Spain is essential. So too is recognising and respecting that many people also speak one of the languages of the regions.
The main language of Spain is Castellano. Other official languages are Galician, Basque, Catalan and Valencian. However, Castellano is understood throughout the country.
Please note that there may be tensions around the relationship between regions and between regional governments and central government. When talking with Spaniards handle this subject with care.
A typical day in Spain
Whilst most Spaniards live like people from other countries and cultures – sleep, eat, work or study etc, they do these things at different times and ways from what you may be accustomed to.
Work and school: typically schools, offices, doctors’ surgeries and supermarkets open from 8.30am. Many other shops open from 10am.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner: Spaniards don’t eat much at breakfast – coffee and a little toast or cake is the norm. Many people also enjoy a mid morning snack – Spanish Elevenses!
In the morning people wish each other ‘buenos días’ – good morning. However, ‘morning’ doesn’t end until it is lunchtime, which is around 2pm. At this point many offices and shops close until around 5pm. This custom started because people wanted to avoid the heat of the afternoon and also have a siesta. Whilst having a nap is dying out in Spain the 2pm, or later, lunchtime is still the routine. At this time people wish each other ‘buenas tardes’.
Lunch tends to be the main meal of the day. Most restaurants serve a Menú del Día. The concept was introduced by the Dictator Franco who wanted workers to have an economically priced three course meal.
In the late afternoon some people avail themselves of a merienda – a snack to keep them going until dinner time, which tends not to start until 9 or 10pm. Many bars will serve a tapa or a small portion of food when a drink is served. Dinner, therefore, tends to be a light meal.
In the evening you will find lots of people in the park or in the street enjoying a paseo, or a stroll.
In the later evening people wish each other ‘buenas noches’ (goodnight) when it is dark or when they are going to bed – usually not before midnight!
Names and greetings
If you have a middle name which appears on your identity document with which you registered at the doctors or dentist don’t be surprised if they call out ‘Sarah Jane, next please’ or ‘Paul Andrew, siguiente’. This is because Spanish people have two first names and two surnames; the first surname is their father’s and the second surname their mother’s. Usually people are addressed by their first name and first surname. Therefore Martín Varela García would be addressed as Martín Varela. Spanish women do not change their surname after getting married.
Picking a baby’s name
Often a baby is named after the saint whose feast day is the day of the birth. Or parents may choose a saint’s name commonly used in the family. Most Spanish names have a religious origin or connection. Thus many men are called ‘Jesús’ and many women are called ‘María’. Often names are combined with others such as José María for a man after Joseph and Mary or, indeed, María José for a woman. There is a considerable variety of versions of saints’ names and combinations.
Name Days or Onomasticos
If you are called after a saint then you will be greeted with ‘Feliz Onomastico’, or Happy Name Day, on the feast of that saint.
Nicknames
To add to this lexicon about names, don’t be surprised to learn that often people have been given nicknames which can be impossible to work out. For example, Pepe is the nickname for José and Charo the nickname for Rosario.
Greeting and meeting other people
In Spain it is customary to say hello to people even on the street, going into a waiting room or elevator or in a shop. Use ‘buenos días’ or ‘buenas tardes’, depending on the time of day.
When meeting a woman or being introduced, even for the first time, it is very common to kiss both cheeks starting on the left.
Men will shake hands or perhaps hug if they are close friends. Male members of a family and those considered family may also kiss each other on both cheeks. This is by no means unusual in Spain.
Family and friends – meeting and eating
Family life is very important to Spaniards and often several generations live together. It is quite common for older children in their 30s and 40s to live with their parents.
Spanish people are also very sociable, and you will see families and friends gathering for long lunches or dinner. Don’t be surprised if children are eating with their family late into the evening.
Some points to note: don’t be surprised if Spaniards arrive 15 minutes or so late – even if they have invited you. When it comes to payment usually the person who has invited pays the bill, however it is also common, especially among young people, for them to pay their share individually.
The sobremesa is very important to Spaniards. This is a period at the end of lunch when they sit around and chat – often for a long time.
If it is a special celebration and gifts are being presented, they will be opened immediately and admired by everyone. If it is a birthday there will be a cake with candles to be blown out whilst everyone sings: ‘Cumpleaños feliz, cumpleaños feliz, te deseamos todos, compleaños feliz’ – ‘Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, we wish you everything (you wish for), happy birthday to you.’
Tipping
It is a myth that Spaniards don’t tip. However generally speaking they don’t tip very much. When buying a coffee or paying a taxi fare it is common simply to ‘round up’. If the service has been exceptional in a restaurant you may choose to leave around 5-10%. If you pay be credit card then a tip is not expected.
Things can take time – be patient
Whether dealing with state bureaucracy, buying a car or leasing an apartment, be prepared to have a different experience in Spain from perhaps you are used to in a more service standard – orientated country. In Spanish society they have their own approach to form filling, waiting times and customer service. Be patient. It is their way of doing things. There is a system for complaining – the ‘Hojas de reclamaciones’ which are available in all establishments.
Section Two - Understanding How Spain Works
As of May 2025, Spain’s population is estimated to be approximately 49,077,984 people, marking the first time the country has surpassed 49 million inhabitants. This growth reflects a steady increase from previous years, with the population recorded at 48,619,695 on January 1, 2024.
The rise in population is largely attributed to immigration, with foreign-born residents now comprising about 19.11% of the total population. This demographic shift underscores Spain’s growing diversity and its role as a destination for people from various parts of the world.
Spain remains the sixth-most populous country in Europe and ranks 32nd globally.
Economy
Spain boasts a dynamic and highly developed economy, currently ranking as the 14th largest in the world by nominal GDP and the 5th largest in Europe. As a key member of the European Union, eurozone, OECD, and World Trade Organization, Spain plays an influential role on the global economic stage.
Its economy is a diverse mix of advanced industries, world-leading tourism, cutting-edge renewable energy, and a thriving agricultural sector. Spain’s strategic location, skilled workforce, and deep integration with European and global markets make it an attractive destination for investment and innovation. Whether you’re looking at tech startups in Barcelona or global logistics in Valencia, Spain continues to position itself as a forward-looking and resilient economy.
Industries of Spain
Spain’s largest industries measured by annual output are textiles and clothing, food and beverage, metals, chemicals and shipbuilding. Tourism is also a major contributor to the country’s economy. Spain’s tourist industry is the second largest in the world. It employs about 2 million people and accounts for about 11 percent of the country’s GDP.
Inditex is one of the world’s largest textile companies and is composed of almost a hundred smaller companies that deal in all aspects of clothing production and retail. Spain also exports a great deal of textile machinery. Six of the ten largest international infrastructure and transport construction firms are based in Spain.
Spain also has a strong automotive industry that is one of the top ten automotive producers in the world. The domestic brand SEAT is the largest of these companies, but a number of foreign manufacturers, such as Ford, Nissan and Renault have plants in the country.
Repsol is a major energy company headquartered in Madrid that employs about 24,000 people nationwide.
Other industries with significant production in the country include clay and refractory products, machine tools and medical equipment.
How Spain is Governed
In this section we will look at:
- Central and local government
- Spain’s Legal System
- Spanish National Health System
- Education in Spain
- Taxation
- The Police
- Armed forces
.
Central government
Spain is a constitutional monarchy with a democratically elected parliament. The powers of the state are divided between the legislative, executive and judiciary branches.
The Constitution prescribes the powers of the monarch.
Making Laws
The legislative power of the state is held by the Spanish Parliament (Cortes Generales), comprising two houses: the Congress of Deputies and the Senate.
Running the country
The executive power of the state is exercised by the government, which consists of the President, ministers and other members.
Responsibilities of Central Government:
- Domestic and foreign policy
- Civil and military administration
- The defence of the state
- Immigration
- Foreign trade
- Monetary system
- Treasury and State debt
- Fisheries
- Transport
- Macro Infrastructure public works
Local Government – government devolved Spain has:
- 17 self-governing regions
- 2 autonomous cities in North Africa – Ceuta and Melilla
- 50 provinces
- 8,131 municipalities
Responsibilities of local government:
- Organisation of regional government institutions
- Electoral boundaries changes
- Planning and housing
- Public works of regional scale
- Transport
- Agriculture and forestry
- Environmental protection
- Water management
- Inland fisheries and hunting
- Economic development
- Culture and tourism
- Sports and leisure
- Health and social assistance
- Economic development, education, public health and the environment
The roles of the Monarch and Prime Minister in Spain
The King is the head of state and nominally the commander-in-chief of the armed forces. In Spain’s parliamentary democracy the role of the monarch is quite separate from the elected government. The Constitution of Spain gives the monarch a largely symbolic role but also with the ability to moderate if there is a conflict between the country’s institutions. The Constitution also gives the monarch powers known as Royal Prerogatives. These responsibilities range from signing treaties to dissolving parliament.
The Prime Minister is officially President of the Government and is the head of government of Spain. The office was established in its current form by the Constitution of 1978.
To fill this office the Spanish monarch nominates a presidency candidate for a vote of confidence by the Congress of Deputies, the lower house of the Cortes Generales (parliament). The process is a parliamentarian investiture by which the head of government is indirectly elected by the elected Congress of Deputies. In practice, the prime minister is almost always the leader of the largest party in the Congress.
The Prime Minister has weekly meetings with the King to inform him about the Government’s activity and the King can express his opinion.
As well as possessing other powers, the monarch of Spain:
- appoints the Prime Minister, but by convention the individual with the most support in Congress is always appointed
- appoints ministers on the advice of the Prime Minister
- signs Bills passed in Parliament into law – however, these must be counter-signed by the Prime Minister and, under the constitution, the monarch cannot refuse to sign a Bill which has been passed by Parliament
The monarch’s role as Commander-in-Chief of Spain’s armed forces is delegated to the Prime Minister and Minister of Defence.
Political parties in Spain:
Partido Socialista Obrero Español (PSOE): Founded in 1879 the PSOE is the oldest political party in Spain. It is a social-democratic party.
Partido Popular (PP): Formed in 1976. The party has liberal-conservative policies.
Unidas Podemos (UP): An alliance of smaller progressive parties, created in the run-up to the 2016 general election.
Ciudadanos (Cs): Formed in Catalonia in 2006. It is aliberal-conservative, pro-European party.
Vox: Former members of the Partido Popular founded this anti-immigration, nationalist party in 2013.
Elections
General elections for both houses of parliament – the Cortes Generales, which comprise the Congress of Deputies and the Senate, are held every four years. The Prime Minister has the power to call elections for these bodies jointly or separately at any time.
Regional and municipal elections are held every four years, usually on the same day.
Spain’s Legal System
The legal system of Spain is rooted in the country’s constitution. It also administers laws passed by the European Union and adopted by the Spanish parliament, laws founded on international treaties and domestic laws enacted by the Spanish parliament.
Structure
The structure of the Spanish court system is based on territorial circuits (partidos) covering municipalities, provinces and autonomous communities.
In these areas the law is administered through
- Magistrates Courts (Juzgados de Paz);
- Courts of First Instance (Juzgados de Primera Instancia) and Criminal Investigation Courts (Juzgados de Instrucción);
- Contentious-Administrative Courts (Juzgados de lo Contencioso-Administrativo);
- Labour Courts (Juzgados de lo Social);
- Prison Custody Courts (Juzgados de Vigilancia Penitenciaria);
- Youth Courts (Juzgados de Menores);
- Courts of Appeal (Audiencias Provinciales); and
- High Courts of Justice (Tribunales Superiores de Justicia).
The National Court (Audiencia Nacional), Supreme Court (Tribunal Supremo), Central Criminal Investigation Courts (Juzgados Centrales de Instrucción) and the Central Contentious-Administrative Courts (Juzgados Centrales de lo Contencioso) have national jurisdiction.
Composition of the court
A single judge sits in all courts with the exception of the Supreme Court, the National Criminal and Administrative Court, the autonomous communities’ high courts and the provincial courts.
The Ombudsman and the Public Prosecutor
In Spain there are also these two important offices:
The Ombudsman (Defensor del Pueblo). The Ombudsman is the High Commissioner of the Parliament responsible for defending the fundamental rights and civil liberties of citizens by monitoring the activity of the administration and public authorities. Any citizen can request the intervention of the Ombudsman, free of charge, to investigate any alleged misconduct by public authorities and/ or their agents. The office of the Ombudsman can also intervene in cases that come to its attention without any complaint having been made.
The Public Prosecutor. This institution is part of the judicial branch but is independent from it. Its purpose is to:
- promote and defend the public interest
- ensure the legality and impartiality of the operation of justice, and
- protect the rights of minority groups
The Attorney General of the State (Fiscal General del Estado) heads the Public Prosecutor Office for the entire country.
Judiciary
Judges and magistrates are independent and cannot be dismissed.
Jury trial
Jury trial was introduced in Spain in 1995 for specific criminal trials. The jury is composed of nine jurors (jurados) and one trial judge (Magistrado) belonging to the provincial court (Audiencia Provincial) where the trial is to be conducted.
In Spain, only the following crimes can be tried before a Jury:
- serious offences against the person, such as murder
- those crimes committed by civil servants while performing their public duties
- crimes against the environment, and
- embezzlement of public funds
Eligibility to be a juror
To serve as a juror an individual must be:
- a Spanish citizen of 18 years of age or older
- literate
- eligible to vote in elections
- registered in the area where the crime was committed
- regarded as having capacity to perform the duty
Those with previous criminal convictions and prisoners are excluded.
Healthcare in Spain
Healthcare in Spain is delivered through both the state funded Asistencia Sanitaria Pública, the National Health System and private hospitals and clinics.
Dental Care in Spain is exclusively private and no state funding is provided.
State Healthcare
Some 90% of Spaniards use the National Health System which is accountable to the Spanish parliament through the Ministry of Health. Delivery of healthcare is largely devolved to the autonomous regions which each have a department or body responsible. See:
Eligibility for State Healthcare
Those entitled to access the National Health System free of charge are:
- legal residents in Spain who are employed or self- employed and pay social security contributions – this also entitles their immediate family
- those granted permanent residency in Spain
- immigrants to Spain who have an agreement that their home country will pay their public medical expenses, eg those from the UK with form S1 entitlement
- legal residents in Spain who have entered into a Convenio Especial which is a system for residents to request to join the Spanish Public Health System for a monthly fee. This is only possible if you have been living in Spain for at least one year
Not Entitled to State Healthcare in Spain
Those who are not entitled to State Healthcare must use private health services. Most people take out private health insurance to pay for the costs. Indeed, many people moving to Spain may have had to do this as one of the conditions of their Visa.
Those considering taking out private health insurance are advised to obtain several quotes through a reputable broker or from a number of insurance companies. See:
AIS Guide – Healthcare in Spain
Private Healthcare
There is an active private healthcare sector in Spain which often works hand in glove with the National Health System. In some places public and private health services may be available in the same facility. Those electing to use private healthcare must be able to demonstrate that they have adequate insurance or they may be asked to pay in advance of any treatment.
People staying temporarily in Spain with an EHIC/GHIC card
Visitors to Spain from other EU countries can use their state healthcare entitlement for emergency health treatment with their EHIC card issued in their country of residence.
UK Nationals may apply for either a Global Health Insurance Card (UK GHIC)
or
a UK European Health Insurance Card, if they have rights under the Brexit Withdrawal Agreement
For further details of the healthcare these cards cover and how to apply:
NHS Guide – Applying for Healthcare Cover Abroad(GHIC & EHIC)
Accessing the Spanish National Health System
If you are eligible for treatment through the National Health System you must first obtain a social security number by registering with your local office of the department of social security – the Dirección General de la Tesorería General de la Seguridad Social, or TGSS. The TGSS has offices throughout Spain.
To find your local office:
Documents required:
☛ your passport or Identity Card
☛ proof of legal residency in Spain
☛ proof that you have registered at your local Town Hall – the Padrón Certificate
After registering with the TGSS you will be issued with a Spanish Social Security Number which you can then use to register for medical treatment at your local health centre where you will also apply for a Spanish Health Card – the Tarjeta Sanitaria.
To find your local health centre:
The Spanish Education System
The central government Ministry of Education and Vocational Training has overall responsibility for the Spanish Education System which is delivered through the Autonomous Regions. See:
The education system in Spain has four stages:
- infant school (Escuela Infantil): ages 0 to 6
- primary education (Educación Primaria): ages 6 to 12
- obligatory secondary education (Educación Secundaria Obligtoria): ages 12 to 16
- university preparation (2 year Bachillerato) or vocational training (formación profesional): ages 15 to 18
In Spain school attendance is compulsory between the ages of six and 16.
Section Three: The History of Spain, Significant Events
Early days, Roman occupation, Muslim rule
Throughout the history of Europe, Spain has been a centrally important country. It is no less so today. Spain’s journey through history was at times turbulent. The country emerged from its earliest days into the 700-year period of being occupied by Rome and many remnants of these days remain to this day. From a modern viewpoint it is easy to overlook that subsequently Spain was a Muslim country and that period of history has greatly influenced the language, culture and architecture.
The Catholic Kings – Spain emerges and gains an Empire
As the Muslim rule declined there was a revival of Christian inter- ests. This ‘reconquest’ of Spain lasted for several hundred years during which, in the 12th and 13th centuries, the four main Chris- tian kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula were formed: Portugal, Castile-Leon, Navarre and Aragon-Catalonia. The historic exis- tence of these kingdoms still influences modern Spain. In 1469, King Ferdinand of Aragon married Queen Isabella of Castille. This marriage united the territories of Aragon and Castile and the nascent Spanish nation emerged. They pushed forward the Reconquest, initiated the Spanish In- quisition, outlawed Islam and funded Christopher Columbus to set sail to discover the Americas. As a consequence, the Spanish Empire was created and the col- onies yielded enormous wealth for Spain.
The Spanish Inquisition
The Catholic Monarchs instituted the Spanish Inquisition with the objective of promoting Catholicism and eradicating other religious traditions. In the process, around 5,000 people were executed. And whilst 100,000 Jews converted to Catholicism it is estimated that 200,000 emigrated from Spain.
Centuries of change
The period from the days of the Catholic Kings to the birth of modern Spain make fascinating reading. They witnessed the decline of the Spanish Empire and the rise of the Spanish Bourbons through marriage into the French royal family. This sowed the seeds of the struggle for independence eventually expressed in invasion by Napoleon, which led to the six year War of Independence in the 19th Century.
A Parliament and a new beginning The Constitution of 1812
The inaugural session of the new parliament was held on 24 September 1810. This gathering approved basic principles: that sovereignty lay with the nation and that Ferdinand VII was the legitimate King of Spain.
The Constitution of 1812 proclaimed a new Republic, with the figure of the King to be central, and invested with the right to enact laws. It also established the number of ministers, who were accountable for the King’s actions to the Cortes (the parliament).
In relation to the judiciary, the courts were responsible for applying the law. The constitution also proclaimed the equality of all Spaniards in the eyes of the law and that judges could not be removed.
Primary schools were contemplated for every town in the land, plus a single education system for the entire kingdom. Freedom of expression and of the press was also established.
A century of political turbulence
A century or more of political turbulence followed in Spain with many rival factions. By the early 20th century there had been a growth in workers’ organisations and discontent was fuelled by bad harvests and poverty. Whilst Spain remained neutral in the First World War, the political grip of the King and government on the country weakened and strikes and uprising further destabilised the situation. A Second Republic was formed.
Spanish Civil War – the republic and the dictator
There was an uprising by parts of the army led by General Franco against the government of the 2nd Spanish Republic. Thus the Spanish Civil War (1936 –1939) began. General Franco’s Nationalist forces eventually defeated the Republicans in a bloody civil war which deeply divided the nation. Franco remained in power, ruling with an iron fist in Spain until his death in 1975.
Modern Spain
After the death of General Franco, Juan Carlos I was crowned King of Spain, on November 22, 1975. This move to a constitutional monarchy paved the way for the constitution of modern Spain which came into effect on January 1, 1979.
Further reading:
A Concise History of Spain by William D Phillips Jr & Carla Rahn Phillips. The rich cultural and political life of Spain has emerged from its complex history, from the diversity of its peoples, and from continual contact with outside influences. This book traces that history from prehistoric times to the present, focusing particularly on culture, society, politics and personalities. It introduces readers to key themes that have shaped Spain’s history and culture.
Link (Amazon) to: A Concise History of Spain
Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett. An eloquent odyssey through Spain’s dark history journeys into the heart of the Spanish Civil War to examine the causes and consequences of a painful recent past, as well as its repercussions in terms of the discovery of mass graves containing victims of Franco’s death squads and the lives of modern-day Spaniards.
Link (Amazon) to: Ghosts of Spain
The New Spaniards by John Hooper. The restoration of democracy in 1977 heralded a period of intense change that continues today. Spain has become a land of extraordinary paradoxes in which traditional attitudes and contemporary preoccupations exist side by side. Focussing on issues which affect ordinary Spaniards, from housing to gambling, from changing sexual mores to rising crime rates. John Hooper’s fascinating study brings to life the new Spain of the 21st century.
Link (Amazon) to: The New Spaniards
Discovering Spain – An Uncommon Guide by Penelope Casas The author is an expert in Spanish cuisine who has published several Spanish cookbooks and has also written many articles about food and travel. In this book she takes readers on a culinary journey around Spain, featuring the best that each of the twelve regions has to offer, including the Balearic and Canary Islands.
Link (Amazon) to: Discovering Spain – An Uncommon Guide
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